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When you reach the summit you’ll be able to see some of the railway’s surviving remnants—some wheels and gears—as well as the foundation of the once-grand hotel. So these “echophones,” which are essentially mounted bullhorns, were set up so that when you “call” into them, they would be aimed at “sweet spots” for echoing. Among their philanthropies in Redlands was a library, given by Albert and named in his honor when the library was dedicated in 1898. It remains a vital community resource and is still generously supported by the Smiley family. It was there that the Smileys acquired a 220-acre hilltop property (now known as Smiley Heights), with views of Redlands and the San Bernardino Mountains.
Dining
Its beauty made it a nationally known tourist destination, but the park closed in 1939, a victim of the Depression. Sunday brunch is especially bountiful (and popular with many day visitors), with offerings including salmon and shrimp and a dozen or so desserts including those silly messy chocolate fountains that kids love. Abundant with options, this all-inclusive resort excels in gastronomy, wellness, tradition and storytelling, service and a mind-bogglingly immense range of activities.
Winter At Mohonk
Restricted round-trip airfare from $412, including taxes and fees. Mohonk now is very much an all-seasons resort, and each has its pleasures. My wife, Laurel, and I visited in June for the third time since October. We hiked the spectacular grounds, lush in June and stark and brisk in January, and were embraced by the history of this one of-a-kind hotel with close ties to Southern California. Everything is still green and the leaves haven’t started changing yet. The garden is still full of flowers and if you’re staying at the hotel, you can go out on a boat on the lake.
Hotel Experiences
In July and August there are teen programs that feature supervised activities such as daylong hikes, golf or tennis. There are also summer evening programs for kids -- ice cream sundae socials, dance parties, campfires and the like. Essential to the Mohonk Mountain House experience, the offerings of its award-winning spa work in concert with the setting to be a portal to transformation and well-being. From the spa menu, supported by organic and sustainable brands, choose results-driven treatments such as a Pietro Simone facial or location-inspired rituals such as the moss hydrating exfoliation.
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Upgrades include new furniture, fixtures, carpeting and window treatments and air conditioning -- a fairly recent addition the Mountain House. Meals are innovative, modern, delectable, complex and captivating. Throughout lavish velvet settees, oversized doors, inviting staircases, columns, rugged wooden elements and panoramic windows set a cozily suave, country house ambiance. Old-time ski lodges, bygone Adirondack Camps or National Park cabin resorts come to mind.
Even on our January stay, we walked along Lake Road until diverted by ice. We had circled the lake in the fall, covering a fraction of the 85 miles of trails that radiate from the hotel, and would wander again in June. PoolMohonk's heated indoor pool in the new Spa Wing is lovely and family friendly. Situated in a wood-beamed and windowed enclosure, encircled by lounge chairs, the pool is just the right size and temperature for a pleasant swim.
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The November anniversary celebration and peace conference will be a throwback. Beginning with the 1895 International Arbitration Conference, the Smileys have hosted sessions supporting social justice and world peace. Family members will participate and also lead hikes and tours.
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We stopped for martinis in the Carriage Lounge, also opened in 2005. It was a final compromise with the beliefs of Quakers, who shun alcohol. After lunch, we visited the ice-skating rink and greenhouse, then headed back to the Mountain House.
DownsidesIt has been many years since guests traveled to Mohonk via horse-drawn carriages, yet Mohonk's egress hasn't adapted all that well to the advent of the automobile. Notices in the elevator say as much, and reportedly improvements to the driveway are in the planning stages. But, for now, if you're in a hurry to leave, you may do better to park in the self-park lot and take a DIY approach to loading your car. Or -- better still -- consider checking your luggage at the front desk for storage and spending a few more hours enjoying yourself. Day TrippingIf you can't swing an overnight but want to explore Mohonk, there are also day-rates that include at least one meal (lunch) and allow access to the grounds and many activities.
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Within rustically elegant interiors meld period antiques with modern conveniences. Eye-catching photos, paintings and framed herbariums adorn walls. Castle-like, it embodies a breathtaking mélange of architectural elements – Gothic Revival but also Queen Anne and Folk.
Many have balconies and many have in-room fireplaces (some have both). With a supply of chopped wood, firestarters and easy instructions, this former Girl Scout got a minor blaze going in no time. There are no TVs in the rooms -- to the discontent of some but a welcome opportunity for your kids to detox from Spongebob Square Pants. As champions of their land and its largesse, the Smiley family has kept their mission on point for 155 years. They seek to offer travelers a sanctuary for repose, a place to fortify not just body but mind and spirit, too. As if prescient, the resort adopted digital detox before a digital world existed.
Most of all, at the castle just breathe, smile and take in the view. Mohonk’s legacy began in 1869 with the identical twin Smiley brothers, eccentric and frugal Quakers and educators who had a vision and who made some good choices and got lucky. They — particularly brother Albert — envisaged Mohonk as a summer retreat where people could reap the benefits of communing with nature and with each other. For many years, Mohonk was a hub of academic and diplomatic conferences and refined entertainment. It faltered in a few periods but has rebounded to its position today as one of America’s great historic resorts. In the early 1990s, the site was placed on the National Register of Historic Places with a handful of artifacts to help transport you back to the turn of the century.
Kids ClubThe Council House just up the hill from the main building houses Mohonk's active kids program. As you enter, notice the handmade sign for "Record for most newts caught." The figure was in the 60s. It now welcomes guests to 259 luxurious, Victorian-intoned rooms, each awash with contemporary flourishes and all with a view. The two top suites, the bi-level Mountain View Suite and the Lake View Suite have master bedrooms with living rooms and a queen sofa. My favorite, the Lake View Suite vaunts a divine claw foot bathtub positioned by the window to frame lake vistas. For those traveling in a larger group or looking for additional privacy, the six-bedroom Grove Lodge lies just steps from the mansion.
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